tooling around: and sew on

The last time we chatted I introduced you all to Shelly Miller Leer of Mod Home Ec. She and I went on and on about her upholstery know-how, but, you guys, that is nowhere near the end of her incredible talent. True to the Home Ec teacher within, Shelly can also sew! While I try to quiet my wildly beating heart, I’ll let Shelly take it away.

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As I revealed in my previous interview, I learned how to sew so I could get undivided attention from my mom. A little bit of youngest child manipulation of a parent is nothing new. What I didn’t know at the time was how sewing would become such a huge part of my adult life. Thanks Mom, I loved everything you made for me and I am always grateful that you took the time to teach me how to do it myself.

I have students in my upholstery classes who are actually afraid of the sewing machine. It’s hard for me to imagine, since they aren’t one bit afraid of getting behind the steering wheel of a car. I guess the worst that could happen is running the needle through your finger. I’ve done that too, it’s no fun, but it couldn’t stop me from using the machine. That said, let me qualify all that’s to follow. I do not like to sew, just for the sake of running the sewing machine.

I love to sew because it’s a tool for making something I want or need.

For instance, if I want to make a color blocked ottoman cover, I’m not one bit excited about sitting down and doing the stitching, but I am excited about what I’ll get in the end; a stitched together color blocked piece of fabric to cover an ottoman.

The sewing machine is one of my very favorite tools in the whole world.

The Beginner

If you are just thinking about learning how to sew, here’s all you need:

  • Sewing machine (vintage, old ones are truly the best)
  • Sharp scissors
  • Seam ripper

Shelly's Singer

To get a good start, read the instruction manual, learn how to thread the machine and the bobbin, and practice sewing forward and in reverse. Get a piece of paper and draw a big figure 8 on it. Practice stitching along the figure 8 so you can get the feel for guiding fabric under the needle.

A really easy Beginner project would be to take one of the reusable market bags from Whole Foods or another grocery, take it apart to use as a pattern, all the while noticing how it was put together. Make your own bag out of some scrap fabric.

Practice, practice, practice.

The Advanced  Novice

Once you’ve mastered straight stitching and simple construction, try your hand at sewing curtains or a pillow. Again, very simple stitching, but now you’ll be learning how to sew a hem, install a zipper, or perhaps attach ties or tabs on your items. It helps to study curtains you already have, or throw pillows on your sofa. Try to figure out how they were made, then mimic that. You’ll want to learn some simple sewing techniques that will ensure your final project looks handmade, not homemade.

There are basic tools that just make the life of a sewist easier. You’ll need:

  • Zipper foot for installing a zipper and making covered piping/welt cord
  • Cutting mat for a table and a rotary cutter that quilters use for cutting straight lines quickly and efficiently
  • Clean, hot, steamy iron

Zipper foot in action at The Purl Bee. Click on the image for additional information.

Don’t overlook the iron. A good steam pressing makes fabric do almost anything you want it to.

(Note from Janice: I’d like to rub in the multiple times we’ve mentioned the need for a good iron. For example…)

The Experienced Needle Pusher

After the intermediate home sewing or fashion sewing projects, you may be interested in tailoring. At this level of proficiency many more sewing notions are available that assist in getting garments to hang just right.

  • A sewing ham; used to steam in rounded areas like shoulder caps of a sleeve
  • Rufflers that attach to the sewing machine’s presser foot to gather and stitch ruffles easily
  • “Walking foot,” specific to industrial upholstery machines, pulls the top layer of fabric under the needle as the “feed dog” on the bottom of the machine pulls the bottom fabric through, so the layers don’t shift as they are stitched

Tailor's Ham by Katy at No Big Dill. Click on the image to see the tutorial.

The Stitch Whisperer

When you’ve entered the advanced sewist playground, you may want to invest in:

  • Embroidery sewing machine
  • Commercial tailoring or upholstery machine
  • Serger

Whatever level you are, there are always more interesting, fun, and expensive gadgets and machines you can buy, but the truth is you really don’t need more than the first three items, a tape measure, and some school chalk to allow you to sew just about anything you could want. It’s more about knowing sewing tricks and techniques that allow you to make clothes, pillows, curtains, slipcovers, and boxed and corded cushion covers. Everyone could use a strict teacher hovering over them at the sewing machine to make sure they learn exactly how to sew darts, curves, zippers, or cording.

If you learn it right to begin with, you’ll never be satisfied with slipshod.

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Want more from Shelly? Check out her Digital Apprentice: Intro to Sewing & Upholstery ebook!

tooling around: hit the nail on the head

Shelly Miller Leer had her own upholstery studio for close to 20 years. Three years ago she started teaching other people this special refurbishing art.

Even more recently, a friend of mine helped Shelly publish her first e-book, “Mod Home Ec Digital Apprentice: Intro to Sewing & Upholstery.” When I found out about the e-book and Shelly’s vast array of tools, I virtually zoomed right on over to Mod Home Ec where I saw this!

We’ll start from the very beginning. Once your chair is approved, you will learn how to determine fabric yardage, choose appropriate fabric, tear it down (remove the old upholstery fabric), make simple repairs, re-pad and reupholster it. Professional tips and shortcuts will be covered in order to keep you interested and excited about learning how to upholster. You will learn how to use upholsterer’s tools as well as how to substitute tools you may already have at home. This class meets 6 times for 2 ½ hours, that’s 15 hours of hands on upholstery instruction!

Did you see it, too? Right here: You will learn how to use upholsterer’s tools as well as how to substitute tools you may already have at home.

You mean to tell me I have regular tools with secret upholstery talents?  I love things with hidden talents!  So I asked Ms. Leer to please tell me more about the tools used in her Beginning Upholstery class.

She sent me info on 11 different tools.

“I love them all so much, I didn’t know who to leave out!” she laughed.

Upholstery toolkits are sold for Beginner, Intermediate, and Professional levels. Of course, the more you upholster and are exposed to all kinds of furniture construction methods, the more specialty tools and materials you’ll need (and want). Upholstery tools are not readily available in any local retail stores. They can be purchased online through numerous DIY upholstery suppliers. I forced poor Shelly to focus on just three of the tools you’ll find online.

1.  There’s just not a DIY substitute for a web stretcher.

Gooseneck and straight web stretchers from C.S. Osborne

These tools are designed to grab and hold webbing while you leverage the tool and pull the webbing taut so you can staple the webbing onto the frame. The web stretchers shown here are made by a company called C.S. Osborne, located in Harrison, New Jersey. Their tools have been, and continue to be, in the hands of upholsterers since 1826. There are a few other companies that make some very specific tools, but nobody can compete with Osborne. If you buy an Osborne tool, it will last a lifetime.
 

2. Some DIY-ers try to use little nail guns, or brad nailers, but in the end, an upholsterer’s staple gun is the way to go.

Three staple guns used by Shelly when she teaches.

The gun on the far left, made by Maestri, is electric and it’s the one I use in all of my beginning classes. The gun on the far right is probably the best buy for the beginner. It only costs about $25.00 at Harbor Freight, it uses larger staples than an upholsterer’s staple gun, and it is powered by an air compressor.

Orangey, in the center, is my pet name for my favorite staple gun. He has been by my side for about twenty years. He’s a little heavy, but that helps keep the nose of the stapler from popping up when shooting staples. The air compressors kick on when you’re least expecting it and scare the bejabbers out of you, but the pneumatic staplers are almost effortless to use. Once you try it, you’ll never want to go back to an electric staple gun.

A small air compressor can be purchased on sale for about $60.00. It needs to be fitted with a removable adapter for the staple guns. Try Nail Gun Depot for an assortment of staple guns, as well as other online companies. It’s difficult to find an upholstery specific pneumatic or electric stapler at a retail store. For some reason, someone makes it difficult to just run out and buy upholstery tools. Ebay often has used upholstery tools.
 

3. To apply your finishing nails, decorative nail heads, and/or upholstery tacks, a small hammer will do just fine as a substitute in for an upholsterer’s tack hammer.

A small hammer will do as a substitute in for an upholsterer’s tack hammer. The upholstery specific hammer has magnetic ends.

The upholstery specific hammer has magnetic ends for tacks or decorative nail heads. Old timers in the business spit tacks. They stash some tacks in their mouth and with a fluent motion, they raise the magnetic end of the tack hammer up to their mouth where a tack head is ready, it jumps on the magnetic end and they pound them in to the fabric and furniture in a really steady, fast-paced process. Before staplers, this is what they did, and some still do.

You can purchase a tack hammer with a nylon tip so as to not damage the nail heads but, honestly, I’ve never ruined a nail head by using a non-nylon tipped hammer.

When you’re working fast, tools and processes need to be simple and quick. If the right tools make it easier, then invest in them!

*****

Shelly really does love her tools, and that made me fall in love with Shelly! I wanted to know more about the woman wielding that pneumatic nail gun!

Shelly Leer: My mom was always pushing the limits on doing her own design work around our house. She taught me to sew when I was about eight or nine. It was the only time I got to spend with her since I had three older brothers. She was a master of redesign, so I come by it honestly.

After graduating with a degree in Design and Textiles Education (Home Ec), I did a 180 and went to paralegal school in Philadelphia. After six or so years of working as a litigation paralegal, I was starting a family and looking for a way to work from home. I used to go talk to a friend who was starting her own business so she could stay at home with her kids. As we talked, I just jumped in and started tearing down furniture for her. I watched her like a hawk to see how she streamlined so many routine processes in order to get the job done efficiently and well. After helping my friend for about a year, I took some classes at a local adult education program. That’s when M. M. Leer Upholstery Studio was born.

Janice Bear: What kind of tools did you start with?

SL: I went out and bought crescent pliers from the hardware store, used some different sized flat head screwdrivers we had lying around, and a plain old hammer before I started investing in tools. I used a tackle box for my tool box.

JB: Any bloopers you would like to share?

SL: When I was doing upholstery for designers and my clients, I felt the most pressure when something was due and I was finishing up in the last few minutes. Inevitably, something would go wrong, a fabric stain of some sort, a tiny tear when trying to correct that one last thing. We were delivering a chair to someone’s condo, and contrary to all good upholstery standards, it was not covered in plastic. As we walked up the sidewalk, a bird flew overhead and you can imagine what happened. Back to the van it went.

JB: Biggest triumph?

SL: Being selected as a finalist in the Ready Made 100 contest a year ago. I have a signature upholstered ottoman I make out of old electrical spools. I entered one in the RM contest at the last minute and was selected as a finalist. It was shipped to Iowa for photographing and then back to me, and then to New York for a reception, and then back to me. It appeared on two different pages in the ReadyMade April/May 2011 issue. See it here.